Featured Blog: Poetic Justice in Rhoneland--Local Winemaker Katy Lovell Proves Her Mettle

Gold Medal Winner at "Rhone Shootout" Puts Mourvedre in Spotlight

Winemaker Katy Lovell of Poetic Cellars, a boutique winery in Soquel, easily accessed from the Vine Hill Exit of Highway 17 (just north of Scotts Valley), has been crafting fine wines for nearly two decades now. Her winemaking roots grew deep in Livermore for many years, (where she made wine for her prior label, Rios-Lovell) until she fell in love with the Santa Cruz Mountains, choosing to make the redwood and oak-graced mountainous terrain her new home. Along with partner, Joseph Nagele, she established Poetic Cellars, and has been crafting the poetry that goes into the bottles, while he pens the poetry that goes on the back of each label.

Lately, Katy has been coming into some well-deserved recognition for her efforts. Just published in the August issue of Wine Enthusiast is a review of her 2008 Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir, by notoriously tough wine critic, Steve Heimoff. He rated the wine at 89 points, and would probably have gone to 90, if only he had tasted the wine just one more time.

Of this beautiful wine, crafted from grapes grown by John Bargetto at the Regan Vineyard in Corralitos, Heimoff said: “This defines the style of delicate body, dryness and searing acidity, yielding a Pinot Noir to drink with more delicate foods, such as seared Ahi tuna. The flavors of sour cherry candy and tart cranberry finish spicy and clean. Drink soon.”

As good as her Pinot is, and it is lovely, getting better with each passing month, her Rhones are where she really shines. She received Gold medals for her 2006 Petite Sirah, 2009 Mourvedre and Silvers for her 2007 Mantra, 2009 Late Harvest Viognier and 2007 Reserve Syrah at the recently completed Rhone Shootout competition.

Her real bragging rights, though, come in the result of the consumer voting at the Blind Tasting held at “Romancing the Rhones,” held in San Francisco at The Old Mint on July 14. Out of a field of 41 top scoring wines from the Shootout, her 2009 Mourvedre from the Muse Vineyard in Livermore, was ranked the No. 2 choice by women voters. The No. 1 wine, chosen by both men and women, who vote separately, to catalog differences in their preferences, was the 2008 Derby Estates FIFTEEN 10, a red Rhone blend from Paso Robles, also crafted by a woman, winemaker Tiffanee Vierra. It was fitting that women winemakers took the top two honors at this blind tasting. Congratulations to both Katy and Tiffannee!

Katy certainly has a firm grasp of Rhones: not only is Mourvedre her signature wine, smoky, meaty, fiercely red fruity and not at all shy in the acid department, but she also blends it deftly with Syrah to create a powerfully moody and alluring blend called “Mantra,” which is 55 percent Syrah and 45 percent Mourvedre, both from her vineyards in the Livermore Valley.

Here is what some of the judges had to say about it at the Rhone Shootout:

MEN: 2007 Poetic Cellars “Mantra” Blend

Exotic aromas of wild blackberry, meat, tar, flowers, violets, rhubarb, black cherry and black currant – lovely nose sings from soprano to baritone! Smoke, toasty spice, cola and vanilla on palate with fig, black cherry and dried apples. Finishes with lychee, cherry candy and cocoa. Presents fruit, herb and earth tomes warmly and harmoniously: youthful and just beginning to be well-knit, all the way through the finish.

WOMEN: 2007 Poetic Cellars “Mantra” Blend

Fiercely smoky – wow! Hints of cedar, fennel, orange peel, sandalwood and mint. Attention-getting flavors of BBQ sauce infused with Jack Daniels blend with lots of dark berry fruit, olive and eggplant tapenade, plus loads of cedar and earth. Well-built and solid, needs BBQ pork ribs with chipotle onions and fennel slaw. Simply brilliant acid. Tangy!

Katy's Petite Sirah is also legendary, and her fan club will immediately tell you their preference for vintage, some loving more dark chocolate and ripe plum, others liking a more blueberry-blackberry pie style. Either way, she has you covered. And then some. Her 2007 Reserve Syrah is bold and serious, with a dark depth of character that reminds you of some of Shakespeare’s eeriest of characters, perhaps King Lear. This wine deserves roasted rosemary, garlic and Anaheim pepper grilled lamb over spicy wild mushroom polenta.

Then there’s her 2009 Late Harvest Viognier, about which the Rhone Shootout judges had this to say:

MEN:

Very pretty nose of sugar and smoke, almonds, ripe apricots and a hint of botrytis. Rich and heady, with creamy macadamia nuts, a lot of caramel and butterscotch candy, and a good, clean, freshly balanced finish.

WOMEN:

Lemon custard aromas, banana pudding and fruit cocktail: very inviting on the nose. Tastes like lemon drop candy, with apricot and cinnamon accents. Would be great with pineapple upside down cake.

"Rhone Romance" Celebration: Aug. 4 & 5 at Poetic Cellars

But don’t take their word for any of this. You can taste all Katy’s great Rhone wines next Saturday and Sunday at the Poetic Cellars “Rhone Romance” tasting, from noon to 5 p.m. at the winery at 5000 N Rodeo Gulch Drive. Please see the website for directions and do NOT rely on Mapquest, Google or GPS!! You've been warned...

Katy’s entire Rhone lineup will be available for tasting with a variety of appetizers, including some amazing donuts from local favorite donuteer, Psycho Donuts. They’ll be featuring the Squeal Meal bacon-laced bombshell, and you can vote for which wine you think it best pairs with by simply going to Poetic Cellars Facebook page, where you’ll find a poll. Vote for your favorite and see which wine wins! This is a contest where nobody can lose. It’s all good.

www.poeticcellars.com